Friday, September 10, 2021

 

 

Return of the TNT pattern from way back in the early 2000's..  Simplicity 5502

 

Some time ago I had made the same pattern. I ended up making three beautiful tank tops with a nicely sized shoulder band.  I remember that one version was a gorgeous pink cotton interlock knit, a lovely lace knit and the one I may have loved the most, was an EOS Turquoise rayon rib knit.  But wait a minute- there is still the one that was made from the adorable Swiss cotton print, which was found at Mendels Far Out Fabrics, over on Haight St.


This review is for a different version- this is  for the v neck version with and without the center front seam. (View B)

Now I am working on the third version of said top.  The first one was a way to use a quite small bit of another gorgeous pink ( I think of the color as Pepto Bismal Pink, after the OTC Rx for  an upset tumm)

This review has been written up and I believe that I posted a photo of it.  The Fabric Store has a most amazing selection of fabrics! 

 

https://weare.thefabricstoreonline.com/

 

 

The second version, is from fabric that I had bought on Pattern Review classifieds. It's a gorgeous bright combination of blues, a tinge of acid yellow and light grey. I never did a burn test on the fabric, but it certainly was slippery to cut out. Yes, I did end up using some tissue paper underneath the fabric and the pattern on top. That made all of the difference! It fits me beautifully. So happy to have another well fitting basic to wear.



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It turned out so well, that I was inspired to do my own version of a classic- a Missoni sleeveles shell, but this gives you an idea of what I am shooting for.


 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234153680314?hash=item3684a59dba:g:7UMAAOSwfORgzBQ7 

 

 

Le sigh!

Fortunately enough, I had spied this wonderful fabric at the local Mill End Store.   Then I found the perfect fold over elastic..  Not so bad for the first time sewing with the fold over elastic. I had to use a contrasting thread just to check the stitch length. Duly noted the stitch length so that I can proceed.

 

 

 


 

 

  What has helped me the most with the cutting (layout) was finding  O Jolly.net ! She is an amazing resource for sewing sweaters along with sublimely produced fabrics..   She has the best information on how to arrange the fabric layout for your sewn sweater. I followed all of her directions, especially with pinning the center front so that it is easy to flip the pattern over as well as the top edge and bottom edge of the fabric.   

 Here are the instructions- Just follow them to a "t" and it is going to be just fine..

 
 
 
 

As you can see, I did the classic oops move. I did a fine job of pinning the center front; I just ended up cutting it out on the regular grain line. Doh!!  But I really did an excellent job of cutting it out!! ;)

 


Since this is my toile for the Missoni fabric in my stash, I had to hop to it! 

 It's a work in progress and I dithered over using the fold over elastic or my usual make my own bias binding.

So, today I finally returned to pick up the most perfect colored silk charmeuse ( or is it crepe de chine?) for the bias binding.

 I really am loving the color combination!



Tomorrow, I am planning to  re-cut out the front of this top again. I am cutting it out on the cross grain, so that it is a more traditional Missoni look. (Just like how I cut out the back!)  Soon to be machine basting or hand basting the seam lines..





Wednesday, June 9, 2021

Return to sewing and finally revising the baggy linen shirt (aka the not ugly duckling) so that it has become the Swan of my dreams!























  Well it has been quite some time since my last entry.. Moved out of CA and up to Oregon, which was a big deal!

Now that I am settled into my home, I have for the first time in my life a designated sewing room! It is so amazing to have a space that holds, most of the fabric stash,  some of the plethora of sewing and knitting patterns along with my embroidery and needlepoint stash. ( And the UFO's as well as the  ever growing yarn stash:)  )

 

 I have rearranged the furniture in the room many times, but it is in it's final arrangement! photo coming in the future..

I have been working on and of with a variety of sewing and knitting projects. 

 BUT I have finally started a project that I have been wanting to do for the longest time!

 I bought this gorgeous French blue linen shirt, when I was still living in CA. I adore the color, and yet it never has ever fit me correctly. I found this top at my local beloved Goodwill, which honestly was my favorite place to find all kinds of wondrous things.

 

 

 



What inspired me was one of my knitting friends, in CA. She is an amazing knitter who makes the most beautiful shawls!! Lisa, you are incredible!! She had some beautiful silk blouses, that she had transformed into some gorgeous scarves. She was the one to inspire my latest project- to finally refit this Eddie Bauer shirt so it fits me properly.


So, the last time I was perusing patterns online, I found the perfect pattern. 








Well, I had to do this finally so I carefully had taken out all of the seams, so that I could press each part of the top carefully.

After I had fitted the bodice front with an FBA, I also did a swayback adjustment on the back. Then I did end up having to piece the bodice, as you can see below. I am happy that it worked!




 Since, the  pattern collar was just too large and I was running out of fabric, I decided to stay with the original collar.



With this finished, the hardest part was straightening the bodice fronts together ( it's a very wiggly linen) and pinned the heck out of the two pieces together. Then and only then was I able to pin the pattern onto the two bodice fronts. It did take quite a few pins, I will not lie!




The other pieces were easy as pie to pin and cut out.

The fabric is extremely and profusely ravelly ( is that a word?) so I had to be tenacious about sewing the seams. I had enough fabric left over after lining the sleeves to  make lots of bias strips! That is how I was able to  finish off the shoulder seams as well as the top of the facings that were to be attached inside of the shirt.



The first part that I decided to sew were the lined sleeves. Since I had a quarter of a meter of this lovely tana lawn, I decided to use it for the lining as well as any finishing work that needed to be done.

 

 Tackling the next part was not too difficult- sewing the darts that I had made and  then adding the collar to the neckline. ( Honestly I have not sewn this style of collars in over thirty years.) Pretty pleased with how it turned out. 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 



 




Then onto the side seam. this was not the easiest, but I hand basted with silk thread that I use for hand sewing.  Trued it up with using a sliver of soap, then machine basted it.   So now that it is almost right, I still needed to read the  wrinkles so that I can re sew the side seams.  I had already done the top stitching at the shoulders and was playing "chicken" with the thread I had on the machine.. I was cutting it a little too close for comfort!!

 

 

 

 Here is a photo of the tip I decided to use from Katherine Breene. I found it on a search for flat felled seams. I did find some fun videos that showed how to make a flat felled seam. I am quite happy with how the flat felled seams turned out! The first is my sample. 
The basted side seam with the flat fell seam added.

 


 



 


Finally it's time to attach the sleeves.. It was a breeze! Yowza! Final touches are to add the beautious jewels of the most perfect buttons..